Porosity
Porosity is the measure of voids (pores) in a solid material, which are filled by fluids (liquid or gas). It refers to the hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture.
Hair is naturally porous, meaning it is permeable and can absorb up to 30% of its weight in water.
The level of porosity can vary due to two factors:
- Hair type: curly, kinky, wavy, straight
- External factors: bleaching, coloring, straightening, heat styling, etc.
We can distinguish 3 levels of porosity:
- Low: hair with low porosity, meaning the cuticle is tightly closed, making it harder for water to penetrate.
- Medium: hair with moderate porosity has healthy cuticles that absorb and retain moisture easily.
- High: hair with high porosity has open cuticles, causing it to become brittle and dry, as it cannot retain moisture properly.
Okay, but how do I determine the porosity level of my hair?
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Just to recap, hair consists of 3 layers:
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What we're focusing on to determine porosity is the cuticle. It's the condition of the cuticle that indicates the health of your hair.
With low porosity hair, there isn’t enough space between the cuticle scales for water to penetrate. As a result, your moisturizing and nourishing treatments won’t be absorbed. Low porosity hair is generally a result of genetic factors and is not caused by chemical treatments or heat.
Generally, straight hair (not bleached) has lower porosity and absorbs rich treatments less easily. Kinky and curly hair has higher porosity, which allows it to absorb richer treatments more effectively.
How can you assess it?
Don't rely on the common "glass of water" test. It’s not reliable, especially because of the buildup from treatments like conditioners or oils.
It’s easier to observe on your own. For example, does your hair dry slowly? Does it swell when damp? When you apply a treatment, does it absorb easily, or does it remain greasy?
Why is this important to determine?
To better understand your hair care needs and spend your money on products that actually work for you!
Low porosity hair: Healthy hair maintains a balance between hydration and protein. Choose your conditioner or treatment mask carefully, avoiding too much protein, which can build up on the surface, making your hair dry and dull instead of achieving the desired moisturization effect.
To allow active ingredients to penetrate and hydrate, you should encourage the opening of the cuticle. Use a clarifying shampoo once a month. Wash your hair with hot water. When doing a treatment, use a heating cap to help open the cuticle.
For your conditioner, choose formulas rich in emollients, such as vegetable butters (Shea, Avocado) and botanical oils (Argan, Avocado, Coconut, Jojoba, Grape Seed, Baobab). For serums: choose a light formula, free from protein, to attract and retain moisture (glycerin, honey, etc.) with a fluid texture, such as milk.
High porosity hair: rely on protein-based treatments. For example, you can add an egg to your Ayurvedic powder mask. Favor rinsing with cider vinegar and cold water after conditioning.
